FRANCIS LAM is editor-at-large at Clarkson Potter, a columnist for the New York Times Magazine, and serves on the board of the Southern Foodways Alliance. His writing and editing have won numerous awards from the International Association of Culinary Professionals and the James Beard Foundation. In past lives, he was a judge on Top Chef Masters, the features editor at Gilt Taste, a senior writer at Salon.com, and a contributing editor at Gourmet. His work has appeared in the 2006-2014 editions of Best Food Writing. He believes that, in professional football, that would count as a dynasty; in ancient China, not so much.